Comments on: How do I get my dog to come to me at the park? http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/ Mon, 06 Sep 2010 19:39:20 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.7 hourly 1 By: Martin O http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/comment-page-1/#comment-3943 Martin O Wed, 08 Apr 2009 04:21:05 +0000 http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/#comment-3943 First you have to put in your head that your dog is your follower and you are the leader. I recomend that you train him to come and things like that when you guys are alone and the more tricks you teach him the more obediant the dog will be. But the thing to remmember is that you cant ever and by this i mean ever show any submissiveness to your dog. What i mean is that when ever you are close to your dog, it means that you are training him/her, because if you show some kinda of submisibness the dog will take advantage of that. Also if your dog is hyper and all crazy like mine, youll have alot more work to do, i recomment to get them really tired before training them or they will not listen ONe more thing, to train him to come, use some kind of toy that the dog is obsess with. The way to do this is, put the dog in a leash, make the dog walk right by your side and throw the toy far where the dog can see it. THen walk close to the toy and walk around it really close but dont let the dog grab it, then when you see that the dog is paying more atention to you then the toy, tell him to sit or do something and then tell him to go get it and come back (stay holding the leash). If he doesnt come back start puling the leah and thats about it, its good to start when the dog is really young like i did, cause now my dog only goes play whne i tell him to. First you have to put in your head that your dog is your follower and you are the leader. I recomend that you train him to come and things like that when you guys are alone and the more tricks you teach him the more obediant the dog will be.
But the thing to remmember is that you cant ever and by this i mean ever show any submissiveness to your dog. What i mean is that when ever you are close to your dog, it means that you are training him/her, because if you show some kinda of submisibness the dog will take advantage of that.

Also if your dog is hyper and all crazy like mine, youll have alot more work to do, i recomment to get them really tired before training them or they will not listen

ONe more thing, to train him to come, use some kind of toy that the dog is obsess with. The way to do this is, put the dog in a leash, make the dog walk right by your side and throw the toy far where the dog can see it. THen walk close to the toy and walk around it really close but dont let the dog grab it, then when you see that the dog is paying more atention to you then the toy, tell him to sit or do something and then tell him to go get it and come back (stay holding the leash). If he doesnt come back start puling the leah

and thats about it, its good to start when the dog is really young like i did, cause now my dog only goes play whne i tell him to.

]]> By: Michael G http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/comment-page-1/#comment-3942 Michael G Tue, 07 Apr 2009 04:44:18 +0000 http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/#comment-3942 the dog is probly a little scared so just take a treat and he will falow u to the park good luck the dog is probly a little scared so just take a treat and he will falow u to the park

good luck

]]> By: funnysoccerdog http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/comment-page-1/#comment-3941 funnysoccerdog Sat, 04 Apr 2009 12:24:44 +0000 http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/#comment-3941 bring along some treats and a whistle. try assosiating that whenever you blow the whistle, and he comes, he will get a treat. start out in your house in a smaller space. then make the space wider and wider in between you and the dog. then bring him to the dog park. when he hears the whistle, he will run over to you and you will award him his treat. praise him a lot! bring along some treats and a whistle. try assosiating that whenever you blow the whistle, and he comes, he will get a treat. start out in your house in a smaller space. then make the space wider and wider in between you and the dog. then bring him to the dog park. when he hears the whistle, he will run over to you and you will award him his treat. praise him a lot!

]]> By: trooper (canine bad citizen) http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/comment-page-1/#comment-3940 trooper (canine bad citizen) Sat, 04 Apr 2009 01:01:02 +0000 http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/#comment-3940 In general, most dogs already have the behavior of coming to you when they want to. You can continue to shape for duration, distance, and distractions. Marian Breland Bailey, Ph.D., puts it, with operant conditioning you can train any animal to do any thing it is physically and mentally capable of doing. To do this, we need to understand more about cues. A cue is different from a command. We give our dogs commands all the time: Come here. Lie down. Get in the truck. Shut up. A command is a signal to do something, but it is also a threat: Come here Or Else. Or else I will make you do it. Or else I will reprimand you. If the command is not heeded we often escalate the threat aspect. We don't normally teach cues methodically; animals pick them up. You decide to go to the store, so you make sure you've got your car keys. The dog hears the keys jingle, and runs to the front door. That sound has become the cue for a behavior: "Get to the door fast, and I might get to go for a ride." A cue is like a green light: it's a window of opportunity to do the right thing and get reinforced for it. The big difference between a cue and a command is that while a command is an implied threat, a cue is a positive signal. Get a whistle or a clicker. Whenever you use the whistle treat your dog like crazy not just one little treat but many treats like your a slot machine paying off big time, play with him. When the cue is well-learned, it becomes a sort of "on" switch for action. The animal WANTS to do the behavior the cue indicates, because it has paid off handsomely now and then in the past. It doesn't stop to ponder, "Yes, but do I want a tidbit more than I want to play?" It just responds. Once you have established a cue, you don't need to escalate it, to get results. When the light turns green, we step on the gas immediately; two green lights, or a bigger green light, would not make us step on the gas any faster or better. When the phone rings, we answer it, even though sometimes the caller is a roofing salesman and sometimes we were doing something we really enjoyed more than phone calls when the phone rang. It's a cue, cues mean a chance to get something good, and we respond. This works for dogs, sea mammels, and birds. It really works give it a try. In your case I would use the whistle only when I wanted my dog to come. All you have to do is blow it in the house, and your dog will come out of curiosity. When he comes become a slot machine for good treats. Do this over and over. Then go outside and try it, then do it when he is distracted. But, remember for you the whistle is only used when you want your dog to come. Not for anthing else. In general, most dogs already have the behavior of coming to you when they want to. You can continue to shape for duration, distance, and distractions. Marian Breland Bailey, Ph.D., puts it, with operant conditioning you can train any animal to do any thing it is physically and mentally capable of doing. To do this, we need to understand more about cues. A cue is different from a command. We give our dogs commands all the time: Come here. Lie down. Get in the truck. Shut up. A command is a signal to do something, but it is also a threat: Come here Or Else. Or else I will make you do it. Or else I will reprimand you. If the command is not heeded we often escalate the threat aspect. We don’t normally teach cues methodically; animals pick them up. You decide to go to the store, so you make sure you’ve got your car keys. The dog hears the keys jingle, and runs to the front door. That sound has become the cue for a behavior: “Get to the door fast, and I might get to go for a ride.” A cue is like a green light: it’s a window of opportunity to do the right thing and get reinforced for it. The big difference between a cue and a command is that while a command is an implied threat, a cue is a positive signal. Get a whistle or a clicker. Whenever you use the whistle treat your dog like crazy not just one little treat but many treats like your a slot machine paying off big time, play with him. When the cue is well-learned, it becomes a sort of “on” switch for action. The animal WANTS to do the behavior the cue indicates, because it has paid off handsomely now and then in the past. It doesn’t stop to ponder, “Yes, but do I want a tidbit more than I want to play?” It just responds. Once you have established a cue, you don’t need to escalate it, to get results. When the light turns green, we step on the gas immediately; two green lights, or a bigger green light, would not make us step on the gas any faster or better. When the phone rings, we answer it, even though sometimes the caller is a roofing salesman and sometimes we were doing something we really enjoyed more than phone calls when the phone rang. It’s a cue, cues mean a chance to get something good, and we respond. This works for dogs, sea mammels, and birds. It really works give it a try. In your case I would use the whistle only when I wanted my dog to come. All you have to do is blow it in the house, and your dog will come out of curiosity. When he comes become a slot machine for good treats. Do this over and over. Then go outside and try it, then do it when he is distracted. But, remember for you the whistle is only used when you want your dog to come. Not for anthing else.

]]> By: bubba http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/comment-page-1/#comment-3939 bubba Fri, 03 Apr 2009 17:12:16 +0000 http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/#comment-3939 he's too young with too much excitement, wait til he gets older he’s too young with too much excitement, wait til he gets older

]]> By: Chandra T http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/comment-page-1/#comment-3938 Chandra T Fri, 03 Apr 2009 16:37:52 +0000 http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/#comment-3938 At home try training your dog to sit, stay, and come. Try tempting him with treats (the treats act like the other dog). AT the park just tell your dog to stay or if he runs away yell come. At home try training your dog to sit, stay, and come. Try tempting him with treats (the treats act like the other dog). AT the park just tell your dog to stay or if he runs away yell come.

]]> By: Rated [R] Superstar Edge (nWo) http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/comment-page-1/#comment-3937 Rated [R] Superstar Edge (nWo) Wed, 01 Apr 2009 00:08:03 +0000 http://www.doggydisease.com/blog/how-do-i-get-my-dog-to-come-to-me-at-the-park/#comment-3937 Wow! You sound like you have a done a great job with this dog and I love that you are using positive clicker training methods to train your dog. It will serve you well in the long run. The problem with "come" when you are out and there are lot of distractions is that sniffing a critters scent may be more exciting than playing with you. I had a very similar problem when my dog was young, and honestly I did not let him off lead until I was relatively sure his recall was consistent (o.k. that was after he chased a squirrel across the street and almost got hit by a car). Practice your recall in less distracting places first. If you have a long hallway have one person at each end of the hall and practice calling him between you of course rewarding him when he comes. Then gradually increase the distance in the house so you are in different rooms, when that is reliable try a small enclosed area outside. When working on recall when he is off leash attach a 15 foot lead to him that he can drag around with him and never be too far from the end. Now when you call him, call him once and then reel him in using the leash and then praise him like it was his idea. My little guy had to carry that lead around with him for several months, but now his recall is at least 98% reliable. Also for skills that are more difficult or challenging you may want to look into getting more interesting food rewards if you are using the same kind of treats for everything you a special liver treat or other highly rewarding food that they don't get any time except when working on recall. My second dog we used sardines and she mastered it in no time. Her recall is 99% reliable and I don't have to carry treats around with me anymore but this whole process was at least a 6-9 month process per dog. So don't give up and keep up the hard work. Wow! You sound like you have a done a great job with this dog and I love that you are using positive clicker training methods to train your dog. It will serve you well in the long run. The problem with “come” when you are out and there are lot of distractions is that sniffing a critters scent may be more exciting than playing with you. I had a very similar problem when my dog was young, and honestly I did not let him off lead until I was relatively sure his recall was consistent (o.k. that was after he chased a squirrel across the street and almost got hit by a car). Practice your recall in less distracting places first. If you have a long hallway have one person at each end of the hall and practice calling him between you of course rewarding him when he comes. Then gradually increase the distance in the house so you are in different rooms, when that is reliable try a small enclosed area outside. When working on recall when he is off leash attach a 15 foot lead to him that he can drag around with him and never be too far from the end. Now when you call him, call him once and then reel him in using the leash and then praise him like it was his idea. My little guy had to carry that lead around with him for several months, but now his recall is at least 98% reliable. Also for skills that are more difficult or challenging you may want to look into getting more interesting food rewards if you are using the same kind of treats for everything you a special liver treat or other highly rewarding food that they don’t get any time except when working on recall. My second dog we used sardines and she mastered it in no time. Her recall is 99% reliable and I don’t have to carry treats around with me anymore but this whole process was at least a 6-9 month process per dog. So don’t give up and keep up the hard work.

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